Basic Survival Skills -Rigging- Part 2 (Knots, Hitches, and Bends)

Fig. 1 - Overhand Knot

Fig. 2 - Square Knot

Fig. 3 - Fisherman’s Knot

Fig 4 - Double Fisherman’s Knot

Fig. 5 - Figure Eight Bend

Fig. 6 - Bowline

Fig. 7 - Clove Hitch

Fig. 9 - Three-loop Bowline

Fig. 10-1 - Middle of the Rope Prusik

Fig. 10-2 - End of the Rope Prusik

Fig. 12 - Bowline on a Coil

Fig 13 - Rappel (Swiss) Seat

Fig 14 - Munter Hitch

Fig 15- Guarde Knot

This session will be devoted to Knots, both basic and advanced.

So if you have not read Part 1 of this series yet, you may want to boogie on over

HERE

and catch up with the class.

The US Army manual FM-3-97 (Mountaineering) has this to say about Knots:

All knots used by a Mountaineer are divided into four classes: Class I—joining knots, Class II—anchor knots, Class III—middle rope knots, and Class IV—special knots. The variety of knots, bends, bights, and hitches is almost endless. These classes of knots are intended only as a general guide since some of the knots discussed may be appropriate in more than one class. The skill of knot tying can perish if not used and practiced. With experience and practice, knot tying becomes instinctive and helps the mountaineer in many situations.

I really like how military manuals cut right to the meat of the matter.

A) BASIC KNOTS

1) OVERHAND KNOT - The overhand knot is the most commonly used and the simplest of all knots (see Figure 1). Use an overhand knot to prevent the end of a rope from untwisting, to form a knob at the end of a rope, or to serve as a part of another knot. When tied at the end or standing part of a rope, this knot prevents it from sliding through a block, hole, or another knot. Use it also to increase a person's grip on a rope. This knot reduces the strength of a straight rope by 55 percent.

a. Tying the Knot.

STEP 1. Form an underhand loop.
STEP 2. Bring the Running End over the standing part and thru the loop
STEP 3. Dress Knot down, leaving a min. 4in pigtail

2) SQUARE KNOT – The square knot is used to tie the ends of two ropes of equal diameter (Figure 2). It is a joining knot.

a. Tying the Knot.
STEP 1. Holding one working end in each hand, place the working end in the right hand over the one in the left hand.
STEP 2. Pull it under and back over the top of the rope in the left hand.
STEP 3. Place the working end in the left hand over the one in the right hand and repeat STEP 2.
STEP 4. Dress the knot down and secure it with an overhand knot on each side of the square knot.

b. Checkpoints.
(1) There are two interlocking bights.
(2) The running end and standing part are on the same side of the bight formed by the other rope. (3) The running ends are parallel to and on the same side of the standing ends with 4-inch minimum pig tails after the overhand safeties are tied.
Note: The square knot will not hold if the ropes are wet or if they are of different sizes. It tightens under strain but can be untied by grasping the ends of the two bights and pulling the knot apart.

3) FISHERMAN'S KNOT - The fisherman's knot is used to tie two ropes of the same or approximately the same diameter (Figure 3). It is a joining knot.

a. Tying the Knot.
STEP 1. Tie an overhand knot in one end of the rope.
STEP 2. Pass the working end of the other rope through the first overhand knot. Tie an overhand knot around the standing part of the first rope with the working end of the second rope.
STEP 3. Tightly dress down each overhand knot and tightly draw the knots together.

b. Checkpoints.
(1) The two separate overhand knots are tied tightly around the long, standing part of the opposing rope.
(2) The two overhand knots are drawn snug.
(3) Ends of rope exit knot opposite each other with 4-inch pigtails.

4) DOUBLE FISHERMAN'S KNOT - The double fisherman's knot (also called double English or grapevine) is used to tie two ropes of the same or approximately the same diameter (Figure 4). It is a joining knot.

a. Tying the Knot.
STEP 1. With the working end of one rope, tie two wraps around the standing part of another rope.
STEP 2. Insert the working end (STEP 1) back through the two wraps and draw it tight.
STEP 3. With the working end of the other rope, which contains the standing part (STEPS 1 and 2), tie two wraps around the standing part of the other rope (the working end in STEP 1). Insert the working end back through the two wraps and draw tight.
STEP 4. Pull on the opposing ends to bring the two knots together.

b. Checkpoints.
(1) Two double overhand knots securing each other as the standing parts of the rope are pulled apart.
(2) Four rope parts on one side of the knot form two "x" patterns, four rope parts on the other side of the knot are parallel.
(3) Ends of rope exit knot opposite each other with 4-inch pigtails.

5) FIGURE-EIGHT BEND - The figure-eight bend is used to join the ends of two ropes of equal or unequal diameter within 5-mm difference (Figure 5).

a. Tying the Knot.
STEP 1. Grasp the top of a 2-foot bight.
STEP 2. With the other hand, grasp the running end (short end) and make a 360-degree turn around the standing end.
STEP 3. Place the running end through the loop just formed creating an in-line figure eight.
STEP 4. Route the running end of the other ripe back through the figure eight starting from the original rope's running end. Trace the original knot to the standing end.
STEP 5. Remove all unnecessary twists and crossovers. Dress the knot down.

b. Checkpoints.
(1) There is a figure eight with two ropes running side by side.
(2) The running ends are on opposite sides of the knot.
(3) There is a minimum 4-inch pigtail.

6) BOWLINE - The bowline is used to tie the end of a rope around an anchor. It may also be used to tie a single fixed loop in the end of a rope (Figure 6). It is an anchor knot.

a. Tying the Knot.
STEP 1. Bring the working end of the rope around the anchor, from right to left (as the climber faces the anchor).
STEP 2. Form an overhand loop in the standing part of the rope (on the climber's right) toward the anchor.
STEP 3. Reach through the loop and pull up a bight.
STEP 4. Place the working end of the rope (on the climber's left) through the bight, and bring it back onto itself. Now dress the knot down.
STEP 5. Form an overhand knot with the tail from the bight.

b. Checkpoints.
(1) The bight is locked into place by a loop. (2) The short portion of the bight is on the inside and on the loop around the anchor (or inside the fixed loop).
(3) There is a minimum 4-inch pigtail after tying the overhand safety.

7) CLOVE HITCH - The clove hitch is an anchor knot that can be used in the middle of the rope as well as at the end (Figure 7). The knot must have constant tension on it once tied to prevent slipping. It can be used as either an anchor or middle of the rope knot, depending on how it is tied.

a. Tying the Knot.

(1) Middle of the Rope.
STEP 1. Hold rope in both hands, palms down with hands together. Slide the left hand to the left from 20 to 25 centimeters.
STEP 2. Form a loop away from and back toward the right.
STEP 3. Slide the right hand from 20 to 25 centimeters to the right. Form a loop inward and back to the left hand.
STEP 4. Place the left loop on top of the right loop. Place both loops over the anchor and pull both ends of the rope in opposite directions. The knot is tied.

(2) End of the Rope.
Note: For instructional purposes, assume that the anchor is horizontal.
STEP 1. Place 76 centimeters of rope over the top of the anchor. Hold the standing end in the left hand. With the right hand, reach under the horizontal anchor, grasp the working end, and bring it inward.
STEP 2. Place the working end of the rope over the standing end (to form a loop). Hold the loop in the left hand. Place the working end over the anchor from 20 to 25 centimeters to the left of the loop.
STEP 3. With the right hand, reach down to the left hand side of the loop under the anchor. Grasp the working end of the rope. Bring the working end up and outward.
STEP 4. Dress down the knot.

b. Checkpoints.
(1) The knot has two round turns around the anchor with a diagonal locking bar.
(2) The locking bar is facing 90 degrees from the direction of pull.
(3) The ends exit 180 degrees from each other.
(4) The knot has more than a 4-inch pigtail remaining.

8) GIRTH HITCH - The girth hitch is used to attach a runner to an anchor or piece of equipment (Figure 8). It is a special-purpose knot.

a. Tying the Knot.
STEP 1: Form a bight.
STEP 2: Bring the runner back through the bight.
STEP 3: Cinch the knot tightly.

b. Checkpoint.
(1) Two wraps exist with a locking bar running across the wraps.
(2) The knot is dressed tightly.

B) ADVANCED KNOTS

1) THREE-LOOP BOWLINE - The three-loop bowline is used to form three fixed loops in the middle of a rope (Figure 9). It is used in a self-equalizing anchor system. It is a specialty knot.

a. Tying the Knot.
STEP 1. Form an approximate 24-inch bight.
STEP 2. With the right thumb facing toward the body, form a doubled loop in the standing part by turning the wrist clockwise. Lay the loops to the right.
STEP 3. With the right hand, reach down through the loops and pull up a doubled bight from the standing part of the rope.
STEP 4. Place the running end (bight) of the rope (on the left) through the doubled bight from left to right and bring it back on itself. Hold the running end loosely and dress the knot down by pulling on the standing parts.
STEP 5. Safety it off with a doubled overhand knot.

b. Checkpoints.
(1) There are two bights held in place by two loops. (2) The bights form locking bars around the standing parts.
(3) The running end (bight) must be on the inside of the fixed loops.
(4) There is a minimum 4-inch pigtail after the double overhand safety knot is tied.

2) PRUSIK KNOT - The Prusik knot is used to put a movable rope on a fixed rope such as a Prusik ascent or a tightening system. This knot can be tied as a middle or end of the rope Prusik. It is a specialty knot.

a. Tying the Knot.

(1) Middle-of-the-Rope Prusik. The middle-of-the-rope Prusik knot can be tied with a short rope to a long rope as follows (Figure 10-1.):

STEP 1. Double the short rope, forming a bight, with the working ends even. Lay it over the long rope so that the closed end of the bight is 12 inches below the long rope and the remaining part of the rope (working ends) is the closest to the climber; spread the working end apart.
STEP 2. Reach down through the 12-inch bight. Pull up both of the working ends and lay them over the long rope. Repeat this process making sure that the working ends pass in the middle of the first two wraps. Now there are four wraps and a locking bar working across them on the long rope.
STEP 3. Dress the wraps and locking bar down to ensure they are tight and not twisted. Tying an overhand knot with both ropes will prevent the knot from slipping during periods of variable tension.

(2) End-of-the-Rope Prusik (Figure 10-2):

STEP 1. Using an arm's length of rope, and place it over the long rope.
STEP 2. Form a complete round turn in the rope.
STEP 3. Cross over the standing part of the short rope with the working end of the short rope.
STEP 4. Lay the working end under the long rope.
STEP 5. Form a complete round turn in the rope, working back toward the middle of the knot.
STEP 6. There are four wraps and a locking bar running across them on the long rope. Dress the wraps and locking bar down. Ensure they are tight, parallel, and not twisted.
STEP 7. Finish the knot with a bowline to ensure that the Prusik knot will not slip out during periods of varying tension.

b. Checkpoints.
(1) Four wraps with a locking bar.
(2) The locking bar faces the climber.
(3) The knot is tight and dressed down with no ropes twisted or crossed.
(4) Other than a finger Prusik, the knot should contain an overhand or bowline to prevent slipping.

3) BACHMAN KNOT - The Bachman knot provides a means of using a makeshift mechanized ascender (Figure 11). It is a specialty knot.

a. Tying the Knot.
STEP 1. Find the middle of a utility rope and insert it into a carabineer.
STEP 2. Place the carabineer and utility rope next to a long climbing rope.
STEP 3. With the two ropes parallel from the carabineer, make two or more wraps around the climbing rope and through the inside portion of the carabineer.
Note: The rope can be tied into an etrier (stirrup) and used as a Prusik-friction principle ascender.
b. Checkpoints.
(1) The bight of the climbing rope is at the top of the carabineer.
(2) The two ropes run parallel without twisting or crossing.
(3) Two or more wraps are made around the long climbing rope and through the inside portion of the carabineer.

4) BOWLINE-ON-A-COIL - The bowline-on-a-coil is an expedient tie-in used by climbers when a climbing harness is not available (Figure 12). It is a specialty knot.

a. Tying the Knot.
STEP 1. With the running end, place 3 feet of rope over your right shoulder. The running end is to the back of the body.
STEP 2. Starting at the bottom of your rib cage, wrap the standing part of the rope around your body and down in a clockwise direction four to eight times.
STEP 3. With the standing portion of the rope in your left hand, make a clockwise loop toward the body. The standing portion is on the bottom.
STEP 4. Ensuring the loop does not come uncrossed, bring it up and under the coils between the rope and your body.
STEP 5. Using the standing part, bring a bight up through the loop. Grasp the running end of the rope with the right hand. Pass it through the bight from right to left and back on itself.
STEP 6. Holding the bight loosely, dress the knot down by pulling on the standing end.
STEP 7. Safety the bowline with an overhand around the top, single coil. Then, tie an overhand around all coils, leaving a minimum 4-inch pigtail.

b. Checkpoints.
(1) A minimum of four wraps, not crossed, with a bight held in place by a loop. (2) The loop must be underneath all wraps.
(3) A minimum 4-inch pigtail after the second overhand safety is tied.
(4) Must be centered on the mid-line of the body.

5) RAPPEL SEAT - The rappel seat is an improvised seat rappel harness made of rope (Figure 13). It usually requires a sling rope 14 feet or longer.
a. Tying the Knot.
STEP 1. Find the middle of the sling rope and make a bight.
STEP 2. Decide which hand will be used as the brake hand and place the bight on the opposite hip.
STEP 3. Reach around behind and grab a single strand of rope. Bring it around the waist to the front and tie two overhands on the other strand of rope, thus creating a loop around the waist.
STEP 4. Pass the two ends between the legs, ensuring they do not cross.
STEP 5. Pass the two ends up under the loop around the waist, bisecting the pocket flaps on the trousers. Pull up on the ropes, tightening the seat.
STEP 6. From rear to front, pass the two ends through the leg loops creating a half hitch on both hips.
STEP 7. Bring the longer of the two ends across the front to the non-brake hand hip and secure the two ends with a square knot safetied with overhand knots. Tuck any excess rope in the pocket below the square knot.

b. Check Points.
(1) There are two overhand knots in the front.
(2) The ropes are not crossed between the legs.
(3) A half hitch is formed on each hip.
(4) Seat is secured with a square knot with overhand safeties on the non-brake hand side.
(5) There is a minimum 4-inch pigtail after the overhand safeties are tied.

6) MUNTER HITCH - The munter hitch, when used in conjunction with a pear-shaped locking carabineer, is used to form a mechanical belay (Figure 14).

a. Tying the Knot.
STEP 1. Hold the rope in both hands, palms down about 12 inches apart.
STEP 2. With the right hand, form a loop away from the body toward the left hand. Hold the loop with the left hand.
STEP 3. With the right hand, place the rope that comes from the bottom of the loop over the top of the loop.
STEP 4. Place the bight that has just been formed around the rope into the pear shaped carabineer. Lock the locking mechanism.

b. Check Points.
(1) A bight passes through the carabineer, with the closed end around the standing or running part of the rope.
(2) The carabineer is locked.

7) GUARDE KNOT - The guarde knot (ratchet knot, alpine clutch) is a special purpose knot primarily used for hauling systems or rescue (Figure 4-32). The knot works in only one direction and cannot be reversed while under load.

a. Tying the Knot.
STEP 1. Place a bight of rope into the two anchored carabineers (works best with two like carabineers, preferably ovals).
STEP 2. Take a loop of rope from the non-load side and place it down into the opposite carabineer so that the rope comes out between the two carabineers.

b. Check Points.
(1) When properly dressed, rope can only be pulled in one direction.
(2) The knot will not fail when placed under load.

Well that is a snapshot of some very useful Knots, I could not include all Knots of course so please find a few books and grabs some line and practice, practice, practice.

*** Note: with the exception of the Overhand Knot, all of the instructions and photos are from FM-3-97.6 Military Mountaineering, Chapter 4. I am only passing on info,please if you plan on using the knowledge on high places, do so with at least one other person... for safety's sake.

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